THE WORLD TABLE
The restaurants on this site are Reno-Tahoe's best. But the perspective behind them comes from somewhere larger.
For more than two decades, I have been chasing the world's great tables — from Osteria Francescana in Modena to the Chef’s counter at Frantzén in Stockholm, from the two-Michelin-starred Clove Club in London to SingleThread in Healdsburg, where Chef Kyle Connaughton has built something that can only be described as Japan through a Sonoma lens — one foot firmly in each culture, the result entirely its own.
I have eaten at more than 40 three-star restaurants on four continents. Not as a critic, but as someone who believes that eating well is one of the most sincere ways to understand a place and the people behind it.
That experience is why the Essential 20 exists. When I tell you a table in Reno is worth your time, it comes from someone who eats in Nevada because these tables are genuinely worth it — not because there's nothing better out there, but because great food doesn't require a passport or a reservation six months in advance. Sometimes it's a taco off a truck, or an Awful Awful eaten standing in an alley, or a bowl of scampi at a dive bar in Sparks on a Friday night
The World Table is where I write about those other meals. The ones that shaped how I eat, how I write, and what I look for when I walk into any room anywhere in the world. They are not Reno stories. But they are very much part of the same story.
SingleThread 🇺🇸
SingleThread in Healdsburg is three Michelin stars, a California kaiseki that is also a true vision of Japan, and the most beautiful presentation of food I have ever seen. Chef Kyle Connaughton and his wife Katina have built the finest restaurant in the United States — and possibly the world.
The Clove Club 🇬🇧
The Clove Club in London doesn't reinvent British cuisine — it distills it to a delicious essence. Buttermilk fried chicken with pine salt, dry-aged duck with cherries, and a haggis donut that earns its place on the menu. Chef Isaac McHale pulled me into his kitchen to taste a sauce. That tells you everything about this restaurant.
Frantzén 🇸🇪
Frantzén in Stockholm is three Michelin stars, vintage Krug, Enter Sandman playing as you walk in, and a chawanmushi topped with king crab, caviar and aged pork truffle jus that is simply the single best bite of food I have ever had. There is no place in the world quite like it.
A Day in Modena 🇮🇹
A private day with Chef Massimo Bottura at Casa Maria Luigia — cooking demonstration, lunch at his 17th century villa, and dinner at three-Michelin-starred Osteria Francescana in Modena. Plus a chaotic Milan car rental, a Fiat 500 flat out on the Autostrada, and the best Gnocco Fritto of my life.