THE WORLD TABLE
The restaurants on this site are Reno-Tahoe's best. But the perspective behind them comes from somewhere larger.
For more than two decades, I have been chasing the world's great tables — from Osteria Francescana in Modena to the Chef’s counter at Frantzén in Stockholm, from the two-Michelin-starred Clove Club in London to SingleThread in Healdsburg, where Chef Kyle Connaughton has built something that can only be described as Japan through a Sonoma lens — one foot firmly in each culture, the result entirely its own.
I have eaten at more than 40 three-star restaurants on four continents. Not as a critic, but as someone who believes that eating well is one of the most sincere ways to understand a place and the people behind it.
That experience is why the Essential 20 exists. When I tell you a table in Reno is worth your time, it comes from someone who eats in Nevada because these tables are genuinely worth it — not because there's nothing better out there, but because great food doesn't require a passport or a reservation six months in advance. Sometimes it's a taco off a truck, or an Awful Awful eaten standing in an alley, or a bowl of scampi at a dive bar in Sparks on a Friday night
The World Table is where I write about those other meals. The ones that shaped how I eat, how I write, and what I look for when I walk into any room anywhere in the world. They are not Reno stories. But they are very much part of the same story.
SingleThread 🇺🇸
SingleThread in Healdsburg is three Michelin stars, a California kaiseki that is also a true vision of Japan, and the most beautiful presentation of food I have ever seen. Chef Kyle Connaughton and his wife Katina have built the finest restaurant in the United States — and possibly the world.
Angler 🇺🇸
Angler in San Francisco is Michelin-starred, unpretentious, wildly delicious and just plain fun — open flame cooking, firefly squid available two weeks a year, roasted oysters in chipotle chorizo butter, and an Angler potato so good it inspired a career change. One of the best tables in the Bay Area.
The Clove Club 🇬🇧
The Clove Club in London doesn't reinvent British cuisine — it distills it to a delicious essence. Buttermilk fried chicken with pine salt, dry-aged duck with cherries, and a haggis donut that earns its place on the menu. Chef Isaac McHale pulled me into his kitchen to taste a sauce. That tells you everything about this restaurant.
Viva Flora Farms 🇲🇽
Flora Farms in San Jose del Cabo is part farm, part restaurant, part cooking school — and one of the most beautiful dining settings in the world. Heritage pork, summer corn soup, fresh asparagus, and a golden hour that needs no improvement. Come here and be carried away.
Frantzén 🇸🇪
Frantzén in Stockholm is three Michelin stars, vintage Krug, Enter Sandman playing as you walk in, and a chawanmushi topped with king crab, caviar and aged pork truffle jus that is simply the single best bite of food I have ever had. There is no place in the world quite like it.
A Day in Modena 🇮🇹
A private day with Chef Massimo Bottura at Casa Maria Luigia — cooking demonstration, lunch at his 17th century villa, and dinner at three-Michelin-starred Osteria Francescana in Modena. Plus a chaotic Milan car rental, a Fiat 500 flat out on the Autostrada, and the best Gnocco Fritto of my life.
Saison 🇺🇸
Saison is nothing less than one of the finest restaurants in the country. At this remarkable Team's hands, incredible California product is treated to wood, smoke and fire becoming something that demands your attention — a consistent drumbeat of wonder and surprise, a kitchen in full flower and at the top of its game.