Johnny’s Ristorante Italiano

West Reno · Italian · $$$ · 4245 W. 4th St. · (775) 747-4511 · johnnysristorante.com

Start with the calamari. So lightly breaded it's almost just a wisp, perfectly fried, served with a bright, clean sauce that doesn't compete with the seafood. It sets the tone for everything that follows. The veal is where Johnny's earns its place among the great Italian tables in the region — few restaurants in Reno serve it at all, and none do it quite like this. Prepared alla Marsala, con funghi, piccata style, or as a parmigiana with an angel hair sidecar, it is a kitchen that takes the cut seriously and executes each preparation with confidence. The parmigiana is worth the visit alone. The Petrale Sole and Scampi Provençale reveal the same level of care and confidence in seafood dishes as well. Ten pastas to choose from, and a daily lasagna that deserves its own conversation.

Save room for dessert — the Florentine Cup, a caramelized almond cup filled with vanilla ice cream, fresh strawberries, balsamic syrup and Zabaglione cream, is as elegant as it sounds. And the affogato is a killer — the kind you'd expect at Ferrara in Greenwich Village, not on West Fourth Street in Reno.

Since Johnny and Mary Cassinari opened their doors in 1966, this has been Reno's Italian standard-bearer. Their son Louis carries that legacy forward with the same dedication to fresh ingredients and unhurried hospitality. A hallway lined with framed black-and-whites tells the rest of the story — luminaries from Reno's most electric era, proof of the company this restaurant has always kept. It's not a museum. It's a reminder.

Come for the atmosphere. Try the veal. Don't skip dessert.