JT Basque

Carson Valley · Basque · $$ 1426 U.S. Hwy 395 N, Gardnerville, NV 89410 · (775) 782-2074 · jtbasquenv.com

"Would you like a Picon Punch?" Even though it is only 11am on a Thursday, it's clear this was less a question than it seemed. This heady mix of amaro, brandy, soda water and grenadine is the embodiment of Basque identity — and JT, as the locals call it, pours about the best one in the state.

This historic and quintessentially Nevada spot is an echo of the traditions and history of the ranches and ranges of the Great Basin. In the care of the Lekumberry family since 1946, it's an essential pilgrimage for anyone looking to experience what this part of the state is and was. JT delivers the authentic Basque family-style eating experience via heaping bowls of stew, overflowing bread baskets and crispy iceberg salads that transport you back to your youth. Think communal tables heaped with char-broiled lamb chops served pink inside and crispy from the flame, signature steaks from local ranches layered generously with fried garlic that both sticks to your teeth and melts in your mouth. Sweetbreads, tripe — hearty dishes accompanied by impossibly large bowls of beans, fries, sidecars of dry jack cheese and carafes of Burgundy that are never empty. Laughter and happiness abound.

There's an old Basque proverb: "We are because we were." That spirit is embodied here in the menu, the care for guests and a reverence for the history these meals represent. The room invites conversation — clippings, articles, remembrances. Hats from neighbors and friends who have passed, memorials of what was and what still is today.

Have a seat at the bar, take in the sunny room, and watch — or better yet, join in — as guests pin dollar bills to the ceiling using a silver dollar and a tack. Marie Louise will set you up. It's a long-standing good-luck tradition, and it belongs to anyone who walks through the door. Food and memory, inseparable.

So go ahead, accept that 11am Picon Punch, and be sure to bring a dollar.