Hinoki Sushi

South Reno · Japanese · $$ · 5270 Longley Lane, Suite 110 · (775) 409-4994

In most American cities, "all-you-can-eat sushi" is a novelty if you can find it at all. In Reno, it's a way of life — one the New York Times recently traveled here to document.

Hinoki is the benchmark. The rolls arrive with names that tell their own story: the Spider — soft shell crab with cucumber and avocado. The Emi — tempura jalapeño, crab, ebi and crystal shrimp with habanero and teriyaki. The Burning Man — Cajun-spiced salmon, spicy tuna, crab, avocado and green onion. Creative, fresh, and ranging from the delicate to the boldly spiced. The vegetarian options are more thoughtful than you'd expect — the Green Giant, the Fuji Mountain, the Tempura Veggie — signal a kitchen thinking about everyone at the table. Deep-fried rolls round out the menu, with the Godzilla — white fish, teriyaki, hot sauce, spicy mayo being a delicious archetype.

The nigiri selection goes beyond the expected. The Donald Duck brings fresh salmon, avocado, imitation crab and sweet Sriracha. The Mickey Mouse swaps the salmon for seared tuna. For the adventurous, Escolar (white tuna) and Hokkigai (surf clam) appear when available — choices you rarely see at other spots in town.

The room is loud and utilitarian, but nobody comes for the décor. At $35.99 per person for dinner, it's a value proposition that will surprise visitors from larger cities — unlimited sushi, table service, the full menu. With nearly 50 AYCE spots for a population of about 300,000, bottomless sushi has become as much a part of Reno's identity as the arch on Virginia Street.

This is not the sushi of Tokyo. It was never trying to be. It is something distinctly, proudly Reno.