The Cheeseburger at Ryan’s Saloon

Wells Avenue · Irish Pub · $ · 924 S. Wells Ave · www.ryanssaloon.com · Daily 11am–9pm

Ryan's has been pouring drinks on Wells Avenue since the 1970s. What's new is in the kitchen. Duncan Mitchell — who ran the well-regarded Von Bismarck before it closed — took over quietly and did something most people haven't figured out yet: he turned a classic Reno dive bar into one of the best places to eat on the street.

The menu reads like a proper Dublin pub that took a wrong turn and ended up on Wells Avenue, which is exactly the right kind of wrong turn. There's a Shepherd's Pie with lamb and beef under mashed potatoes, Deviled Crab on toast with mayo and chives, Codfish a la Biscayne with Basque tinned cod and saltines — dishes that have no business being this considered in a room with dartboards, a jukebox, and pool tables — a genuinely divey Wells Avenue saloon where the cocktail menu lists a drink called "Easter, 1916" and the Irish Coffee is made with Magpie beans.

And then there's Ryan's World Famous Burger: your way, $18, served with thick-cut fries that know their role. Perfectly skirted cheese, restrained toppings, well balanced, he kind of cheeseburger that makes you put your phone down and just eat. Insider tip: Make it Mac's Famous and they pile on the pastrami — which is calling my name for next time.

The $5 shot and half-beer — Jameson and Guinness, if you're asking — is the move before or after. Possibly both.

Don't miss: Ryan's World Famous Burger, and don't let anyone talk you out of the fries. The Shepherd's Pie is next on my list.