Scampi at The Copenhagen

Copenhagen Bar · 2140 Prater Way, Sparks

Every Friday at 5pm, Doug Quilici steps behind the bar at the Copenhagen — a cash-only, smoke-friendly Sparks institution his family has owned since 1949 — fires up a two-burner hot plate, and begins making shrimp scampi to order. That's it. That's the whole menu. The aroma of garlic arrives before the plate does. A dozen large shrimp, tender and perfectly seasoned, swimming in buttery juices that demand to be sopped up with the accompanying mountain of herbed, toasted sourdough. You can have it over capellini if you're hungry, or in a bowl if you're not. Either way, it sells out within an hour. Doug makes every serving himself, in full view of the bar, with a genuine respect for the people in front of him and the legacy of this spot that his dad "Bear" opened back in 1949.

Worth noting: the Copenhagen is also a barbershop. Has been since the beginning. Bar, tavern, barbershop — open at 8:30am. Only in Sparks.

Get there early.